We need to talk about “Swedish Fika”

“Swedish Fika” is the biggest tourist trap a visitor to our country can walk into. Why? Because it’s nothing but a four-letter-word and fancy marketing. Don’t be fooled by it. Certainly don’t let yourself be lured into paying extra for nothing special.

Jaw-dropping email

As a tour guide, you see everything. A couple of days ago my WhatsApp went crazy with a request from a faraway travel agent trying to book their guests currently in Gothenburg to arrange for a “tour” dubbed “Swedish Fika”. The idea? A guide takes you to a café to have a typical Swedish Fika. Cost? Yeah, plenty given that the company in question takes up to ten people on its tours…

What is a Swedish Fika, really?

The Swedish Board of Tourism claims that it is this unique Swedish tradition (it’s not!) to meet with friends in a café or at the workplace to have coffee/tea with something sweet. As a European immigrant to Sweden, I can vouch that other cultures meet up for tea (England for one) or coffee (Vienna, anyone?) with sweets as well. I mean let’s face it who doesn’t? Leaves us with the word “fika”, and that’s probably it. Right? I know of no other language (I’ve studied twelve) that has a word for “hot beverage with sweets” except Sweden.

From a fancy word to a tourist trap

If you walk into a souvenir shop in Sweden you’ll see a gazillion trinkets with the word “fika” on it, from spoons to mugs, cups, and platters, in the colors of the Swedish flag (cringe!) to the rainbow flag (not that I understand the connection there.) But when something is on every other item in a store, seriously threatening Sweden’s all-time favorite, the Dalecarlia Horse.

Would you buy a pen that says “five o’clock tea” or “high tea” on it? I have to hand it to our tourist board. They’ve really managed to hype this word into something it’s never been, a phenomenon, and even when you read their full shpiel it’s not factually false, but it’s not that big a deal either. We are not the only people eating cake with our coffee at a café. What else is there do to there?

Here’s an idea instead…

Now, before you pay €80 a pop to go to a café with a nanny, why don’t you spend that money on yourself? You don’t really need a guide to tell you to choose between a latte or an espresso or which cake to choose from. Instead, with the money left from your fika with your family or friends, go buy a great souvenir to remember Sweden by. If you’re here in Gothenburg, we are obviously famous for our streetcars which are available as fridge magnets or key chain accessories, but if you really want a typical West Coast souvenir, try to find a place where you can buy art from a local artist, e.g. a small painting or why not something made from wreckage goods. It’s a personal favorite of mine and typical for our region. It’ll beat a plastic fika plate any day with your loved ones. Here’s a local artist who excels at this, John Sanderson.

Sweden and cash: valuable tips for our guests

Cash is King! Elsewhere…

Our current 50 SEK bill, depicting local singer-songwriter Evert Taube. He was born and raised in the Gothenburg archipelago.
Our current 50 SEK bill depicts local singer-songwriter Evert Taube. He was born and raised in the Gothenburg archipelago.

Sweden last introduced new bills and coins in 2015 and 2016. And to be honest, I don’t really know who’s on which bill (I had to google.) I do know they’re all artists but we use cash so rarely that it’s become a political topic in these troubled times.

What happens if online doesn’t work? It keeps our national bankers and the finance minister awake at night.

Alas, that is Sweden for you, and if you come and visit us, you better be prepared for it because most shops, cafés and restaurants no longer accept cash!

We pay with our phones and watches, mostly, or we tap

I was at our local airport the other day and there was a huge billboard from a currency exchange firm telling us that globally, half of all payments are still made with cash. Good advice for Swedes. Because we don’t. At all. The fact of the matter is that in most places you cannot pay with cash anymore! That is crucial to know, as it includes e.g. public transport!

Modern payment terminal accepting "taps"

I would advise you not to exchange your euros, dollars, or whatnot into Swedish Kronor (SEK) not just because you’ll never get your money back, as ours is a weak currency, but also because you’ll be stuck with it.

Our most common methods of payment are: Credit Cards (either physical or more and more using our smartphones and watches, i.e. Apple or Google Pay.) It’s so convenient and the pandemic virtually killed cash. Sweden has its own “Venmo”, called Swish, and we use that domestically to send money to one another and pay for services, too. Sadly there is still no interoperability with other countries.

How do I tip?

This is currently a hot and contentious topic. Tipping has no real history in Sweden, at least not in the sense you see it in the United States where servers rely on tips to make a living. Here, our collective agreements between unions and employers guarantee a certain percentage as part of someone’s salary. So it’s not really needed.

Traditionally, we simply rounded up for excellent service, say from SEK 82 to 100. With the disappearance of cash and modern electronic payment options, it’s become more complicated. Most of the service providers have US backgrounds and our new payment terminals automatically include a screen where you can choose to add a tip (or not), whether it is for a cabby or a server.

What about pre-paid services? Say a bellboy or a tour guide, where you’ve already paid for the service to the employer in advance, or to someone else? That’s where cash is still an option. You can either use an ATM (available at stations or e.g. malls) to withdraw some money, or you can simply tip using a major currency. While my guests are not expected to tip me, I’ve had very happy clients leave me everything from Swedish Kronor to Swiss Francs, Euros, or US Dollars. As a frequent traveler to these countries myself, they’re highly appreciated and an acknowledgment of great service. As for the amount, follow your heart and what you feel comfortable with.

Why cash ain’t king in Sweden

Part of this has to do with our legislation around taxes. If I show up at a bank with a wad of cash (or even just a couple of bills) there will be questions asked about their provenance. That’s Basel III for you and the fight against money laundering. But also, if you accept cash tips you’re legally supposed to declare that and pay taxes which nobody ever did (except for the part they get through their salaries.) That in turn pays for our common services and our future pension. The government wants to make sure that all income is properly taxed and therefore encourages the transition to electronic payments. It provides for better control. On the other hand, it’s challenging for some of our older generations as they’re not used to all the tapping of cards or the use of smartphones.

A custom tour for people who don’t know the city, huh?

We get it! You don’t know Gothenburg, you have no idea what to do here. You didn’t choose this stop on your cruise’s itinerary. You didn’t pick this city for your conference. Or you DID choose Gothenburg because your travel magazine said we’re “hipp” or because your foodie website said we’re great for fine dining.

Did we say “We get it?”

Gothenburg, Nebraska. If you end up here, you're not here. That's for sure!

Photo credit: Lucy Gray, CC 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/)
Gothenburg, Nebraska. If you end up here, you’re not here. That’s for sure!
Photo credit: Lucy Gray, CC 2.0

We do, we really do. Because we are avid travelers, too, and we sometimes end up in cities we don’t know, where we wonder “What’s to see?”, “What are the must-sees?”, “What are the tourist traps?” When we say that our tours are 100% customized that doesn’t mean that no two travelers will ever see the same thing. There is, after all, only ONE Gothenburg.

No offense, Nebraska. However, we DO have a lot to offer even if we’re not as famous as London or New York. There is a lot to see, and a tour can be based around many different topics.

So what does “100% customized” actually mean?

Let’s assume you’re into architecture. Wouldn’t you love to see the quirky architectural marvels and mishaps (both a matter of taste, of course) we have to offer? If you’re more into what is going on here in the economy, we’d be happy to tell you all about our automotive industry, and how we are at the forefront of e.g. autonomous driving research. Or we can talk about life sciences, etc. A custom tour makes sure to show you things you’re passionate about. Beyond the must-sees. Around the must-sees.

Unless you’ve already seen them, you still get to see our must-sees. Most of our guests stay downtown within walking distance of many of our humble sights. We will not drag you past them again if you’ve already seen them. We can still tell you about it, give background, history, whatever, but it’s based on you, and what you’ve done. Also, if you don’t like history, why would we spend a lot of time telling you about it?

A custom tour won’t change the sights, it’ll shape how you experience them!

Gothenburg Harbor with Karlatower in the background, the tallest skyscraper in the Nordics.

We can take you to places off the rack tours won’t go. Let’s say you’re into rock carvings and the Stone Age. We can take you to places no bus can get to, even if they’d want to. Say your hobby is really, really unusual. Did we tell you about the client who wanted to buy a Swedish Christmas Troll in the middle of summer? We took them to the apartment building where the husband and wife team made them so they could pick out the one for them. Probably a one-off, but for a happy client, that’s what we do. They still saw the Fish Church, the various statues, Haga, and everything else.

A custom tour is all about making sure you get the best possible experience and lots of lovely memories from your visit to Gothenburg! Simply tell us how much time you have to spend with us and what your interests (and dislikes) are. We’ll make sure you get to spend a great time in our care.

You haven’t seen Gothenburg… until you’ve been to the Archipelago!

Stora Rös on Styrsö, the highest point in the entire archipelago.
Styrsö, the highest point of the Archipelago. From here you can see the entire river delta of Gothenburg.

Paris has the Eiffel Tower, New York the Statue of Liberty, and Gothenburg has its archipelago.

The archipelago is a string of pearls of islands off the coast to the north and south of the Göta River delta. The smaller islands to the south are part of the city of Gothenburg. You easily reach them by public transport. Simply take a bus or streetcar to Saltholmen and hop on a ferry taking you out.

The archipelago is a must-see for any Gothenburg visitor

Styrsö Halsvik was once home to sea captains living in the archipelago.
Styrsö Halsvik, one of the stops of the tour

We have designed an archipelago tour with our visitors in mind. A smörgåsbord of things that make our archipelago unique.

The focus lies on the island of Styrsö, the largest one in the southern archipelago. The walking tour will take you on a journey almost 13,000 years back in time. Back then, the island was still wholly submerged in the sea but began to emerge as part of the land rise. You will walk through our forest, and four (or maybe five depending on who you ask) distinct settlements, and also enjoy beaches and coastline.

When in the archipelago, you need to eat well. Swedish cuisine with a modern international touch.
Just an example of a dish you might be served at Öbergska, a shrimp and smoked salmon sallad.

Here are a few keywords to give you an idea of the tour: ice age, stone age, bronze age, Vikings, unique nature, stunning views, and delicious food. Combined into a coherent story by Gothenburg’s favorite VIP tour guide. He has lived here for more than twenty-five years and consequently knows the island and its long history intimately. He speaks several languages, has a great sense of humor and his storytelling is legendary!

Read more about the tour here.

Screen capture of our archipelago tour brochure.

Contact us for more information, pricing, and booking of your tour!

One Day in Gothenburg? Here’s an idea

Is one day in Gothenburg all you have? That’s not a lot, but for most of our cruise guests, it’s all they get. Also, some of our drive-through visitors from Denmark, arriving by ferry or the E6-freeway, or our friends from Norway, heading south along the same freeway, stay a night to relax in what was once to be the capital of all of Scandinavia. One day in Gothenburg? We’ve got you covered!

One Day in Gothenburg? Looking west out toward the harbor and the sea.

First and foremost

You can do all of this on your own, maybe even using the guide we’ve prepared with tips and tricks, but if all you have is one day in Gothenburg, investing in your own personal guide is helpful, making sure you get to the right places in time and one to the next without missing a beat. Knowing the city by heart, we can adapt on the fly, cut corners, find another bus or streetcar, and ensure you get back to your ship or hotel in time. Besides, we’ll be able to tell you the stories, answer questions and really make you feel welcome in a way a phone screen never will.

One Day in Gothenburg: Stora Rös is the highest place in the Archipelago with spectacular views.

Morning: a nice relaxing walk through downtown Gothenburg

This suggested itinerary starts downtown. All cruise ships will have bus transportation to our main square, Gustav Adolf’s Torg, shortly after docking. We will pick you up there or at your hotel. From the pick-up point, we’ll take a walk through downtown, always depending on where the pick-up is. After all, no two tours will be alike, as you, the guest are our focal point. You’ll get to see the city’s oldest buildings and our canals, and I’ll make sure to familiarize you with our history and culture.

One Day in Gothenburg: this is where we could start the day, taking in the old town and its sights.

Noon: a trip to the archipelago, for something you won’t find elsewhere

Our city has so much to offer. If you only have one day in Gothenburg, we need to prioritize. The archipelago here is unique: narrow roads, no car traffic, lush forestry, stunning ocean views, and quaint villages make the Gothenburg archipelago a one-of-a-kind destination, and TV teams from all over the world have been here to film. Using public transport, we’ll reach one of the islands where we could stop for lunch at one of the small cafés or restaurants serving seafood or more cosmopolitan fare. After that we’ll head out for a walk on the island, telling you more about their culture, history, and how the islanders have survived through the centuries.

One day in Gothenburg: We’ll make sure to show you the unique features of the city’s beautiful islands

Afternoon: from the islands, we return to the city and your onward journey, wherever that may be

At about four or five pm, depending on your itinerary, we’ll make sure to drop you off where we picked you up, after a day filled with impressions and delicious fresh foods. If you spend the night, we’ll make sure to leave a few suggestions for dinner reservations, or maybe a show or concert. If you head back to your ship, you’ll be sure to stand on deck as your vessel glides past the islands, pointing to fellow passengers who were stuck on a tour bus all day, telling them you just spent a day out there.

One Day in Gothenburg: Eriksberg, our city’s newest neighborhood

One Day in Gothenburg? Or maybe more..?

The above is just an idea. We know that all our guests are different, your itineraries are unique, and so are your schedules and interests. Don’t want to walk? Want the VIP treatment with a pick-up by limousine at your ship? Would you rather visit a museum? Take the kids to the amusement park? Dive into our ancient history? See outdoor art instead? Whatever gets your juices flowing, we can make sure your one day in Gothenburg will be memorable.

One Day in Gothenburg but you’ll leave with memories to cherish for a lifetime!

If you have more time, then we have more ideas, and we are more than happy to quote you a dream time in Sweden’s friendliest city. From private yachts to wild animal safaris, or adventure trips, we’ve arranged it all, and we are happy to make sure your trip to Gothenburg will be the best it can be. That’s our passion and our promise to you!

One day in Gothenburg. Leave with memories to cherish for a lifetime!

Visiting Gothenburg with kids

I just replied to a booking inquiry for a group with young kids. I love showing our young visitors around town. As the father of a ten-year-old (next week) and a family who loves to travel, I know that kids and adults have different outlooks on travel, and what to experience at a destination. Here are a few things to consider and plan for when you visit Gothenburg with kids.

Kids get bored more easily

My son and I at the amusement park. He loves it.

The attention span of a child is not that of an adult. Every parent knows that. As a guide, I’m mindful not only to include their perspective in my narration, but also to make sure not to talk too much, or too long at a time. Including the kids in the process is vital.

Kids are smart! And they will usually happily go with everything, even walking tours (preferable to sitting still in a car for longer periods of time actually.) But frequent stops are crucial. Kids will also need comfort breaks and snacks to refuel their energy. Gothenburg offers plenty of everything.

Blending adult and kid activities

Adults can have fun at the amusement park, too. Make sure to balance kid and adult activities.

A city tour is normally geared toward adults with anecdotes about history, art, or culture. When you have kids with you, it’s important to also consider activities that are geared toward them. That doesn’t always have to be on a day-to-day basis but could be spending one day for adults (wine tasting) and one day for the kids (amusement park.)

These are just examples. Ideally, you can do everything because when everybody gets their fill, we’re all happier for it.

Gothenburg with kids

The rainforest at Universeum

Sweden is by definition a child-friendly city. Our amusement park is the largest one and by far the most beautiful one in the Nordics. It celebrates its centennial this year and with its focus on all age groups caters to younger kids, thrill-seeking teens, and adults alike.

Right next door is our science museum, Universeum, which is almost entirely catering to children. Its huge aquariums and the rainforest are guaranteed to be a hit with the kids.

For Swedish-speaking very young visitors there’s the Alfons Åberg (Alfie Atkins) Museum right next to the central station for book-loving kids. Finally, while I haven’t been there since its reopening, I have heard great things about our maritime museum and its huge new aquariums. There’s obviously more, a LOT more… Ask us!

Places to eat and drink with kids

Gothenburg with kids: Moreno Pizza in Gothenburg

Kids usually love burgers, and I highly recommend Max, which is a Swedish burger chain serving really good burgers. Kids love it. When it comes to refueling sugar and energy, there’s a café in Haga serving their famous and humongous cinnamon rolls. I’ve yet to meet a child who’s not licking their lips at the sight of them.

If pizza is the preferred choice, I’d suggest visiting the world’s “largest” pizzeria (their claim!) which is a converted movie theater.

Every kid is different

Our son loves sugar, too!

My son loves sushi, but none of his classmates do.

He has a thing for smoked salmon and loves to see modern dance at our opera house. None of his friends do.

He obviously also loves all of the above. This is just to say that kids are different, and your child may like something else entirely.

Ask us and we’ll find something that’ll make them happy, too. This is why Gothenburg Tours is different from the rest. We cater to your needs. Whatever they might be!

Welcome to Gothenburg!

Welcome to ancient Gothenburg

I promised you the other day that I’d showcase some of my personal favorites in this versatile city. While celebrating its Quadricentennial this year, Gothenburg has a history spanning back thousands of years.

First things first: GAII

June 4, 1621, is an important date in our city’s history, as its fourth incarnation is founded by king Gustav II Adolf. Having long served as a bridgehead into the North Sea, as all lands north and south of our city were either Danish or Norwegian, each previous attempt at founding a city was destroyed by Danish forces (who at the time also ruled Norway.) This is why we only celebrate our Quadricentennial this year, late again.

You need to know about the Ice Age

About ten-thousand years ago, the ice retreated from Sweden’s West Coast, allowing for people to migrate north. And they did. All around Gothenburg, burial mounds, stone ships, cairns, stone carvings, and even paintings bear witness to an age largely forgotten by history. Here are but a couple of examples from ancient Gothenburg to show you:

Rock carvings on Hising Island

These are difficult to find, but no less impressive once you stand there, witnessing the work of art from people thousands of years ago.

A ship carved into the rock. They are difficult to see as they aren’t filled in with color as e.g. the carvings at the World Heritage site in Tanum.

These carvings, boats, and bowl pits bear witness to a time when the ocean shore was located in a very different place and while we know little about that time or why people carved into the rock, to be able to be in such physical proximity to our ancestors’ works of art is exhilarating

One of the country’s most impressive rock paintings

A few miles further north, on a cliff, someone (or several) artists painted animals, fish, and other symbols right above the seashore. They aren’t easy to get to but most impressive to see in person.

A moose or possibly a reindeer, fish, waves, and other symbols were painted on the rock face just a few feet above the seashore thousands of years ago. Stunning to behold.

The islands tell the story of changing civilizations

In Gothenburg’s archipelago, there are many signs of how civilization changed over the millennia along with the changing coastline, as the land rises from the ocean after the literal weight of the ice had been lifted. Here you can visit where the first summer guests arrived some six-thousand years ago, bronze age burial sites, all the way to the medieval times where fishing created a short but vital period of wealth. While on the island of Styrsö, why not learn about how these past few centuries have seen a radical change in the island’s topography and appearance. That, however, is a different story.

There is so much more…

There are hundreds of sites to visit in ancient Gothenburg, and while this is not for everybody, if you love to see things that most tours don’t even mention, let me know. I’d be more than happy to take you to places most guides aren’t even aware of.

Welcome to ancient Gothenburg!

Gothenburg is ready for a new season

Here’s what we have to offer for you

Is the sea beckoning you to visit Gothenburg?

As Gothenburg celebrates its Quadricentennial this year, two years late, a local tradition, there are quite a few things happening in town. There will be a big festival in June to celebrate the city’s 400th anniversary of being founded (by the way not for the first time…) by king Gustav II Adolf, known as Adolphus the Great abroad. Our amusement park, Liseberg, was founded for the Tricentennial 100 years ago (we were late then, too, as the city was founded in 1621), will showcase a brand new hotel (with a water park opening next year) and a new roller-coaster.

Come to Gothenburg for the Quadricentennial, and stay for what we have built over four centuries

We have stunning forests if that floats your boat.

Yes, plenty will be going on this year, and they’re great reasons to come. However, we would like to invite you to stay and linger for everything else we have to offer.

In coming blog posts I’ll highlight some of my personal favorites in Gothenburg and surrounding West Sweden, regardless if it is culture or nature, sea or forest, architecture or food that makes your heart beat faster!

Welcome to Gothenburg in 2023. We’d love to show you around!

On the hunt for prehistoric Gothenburg

Imagine a glacier a couple of miles thick, weighing heavily upon the Scandinavian peninsula, a colossal monstrosity extending from the Arctic Circle all the way down to continental Europe. But with a warming planet, the glacier is slowly retreating. In its wake, humans are slowly migrating north following animal herds, e.g. reindeer and their predators: wolves, bears, and wolverines: prehistoric Gothenburg!

Five thousand years ago

People have been living in the area that is present-day Gothenburg for at least twelve thousand years! We know that because of the neolithic traces left behind, such as what is called “Drottning Hackas Grav”, which was found in 1978 and had to be moved 30 ft to avoid being destroyed by a road being built on the site. This stone-age gravesite is the oldest “building” or construction in the city dating back some five thousand years.

Gothenburg's oldest known (!) construction
Queen Hacka’s Grave, the oldest known construction in Gothenburg

Three thousand years ago

As the glaciers retreated, a weight was literally lifted from Scandinavia, and ever since then, the peninsula has been rising from the ocean. This can still be witnessed in Northern Scandinavia where ocean levels are dropping, despite the current climate change actually increasing sea levels. Here in the south, oceans are beginning to wise again, outpacing the millimeter or so the land rises from the ocean. But thousands of years ago, the landscape here, the shorelines, looked radically different, and many of the archeological finds were on shorelines, including the above gravesite.

Another amazing find here in town is this wall with rock paintings. These paintings date three thousand years back. They aren’t very accessible, but I’m happy to take you to see them. There aren’t many rock paintings in southern Sweden and this one is really beautiful.

!Three thousand-year-old rock paintings on a cliffside in Gothenburg. Awe-inspiring.

Bronze-age petroglyphs

While the most famous petroglyphs in Sweden are an hour’s drive north of Gothenburg, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site at Tanum, there are several sites in the city as well, and most likely many more that have not yet been discovered. Near the harbor is another prehistoric Gothenburg site that may be difficult to access, but that rewards with ship carvings, balls, and a sun (?) wheel. Can you find the carvings in this photo?

Gothenburg Rock Carvings
The Rock Carvings in Vikan, Gothenburg

There is a lot more to see and explore in our city, and it can be combined with visits to Tanum and/or more conventional sightseeing. Prehistoric Gothenburg is always worth a visit, and so are the five-thousand years that followed!

Happy 400th Birthday, Gothenburg!

Dear home town!

Today you celebrate your fourth centennial. That is quite the accomplishment. Now mind you, I realize of course that you are much older than that. We know that settlements along the Göta River date back to the Stone Age. Alas, it wasn’t until June 4th, 1621, that the current installment of Gothenburg actually survived to the modern-day. Every previous attempt at building a city on the mouth of the river was destroyed by our friendly neighbors, the Danes. At the time, they ruled the land south (Halland, Skåne) and north (Bohuslän, Norway.)

Tower of the church named “Masthuggskyrkan” in the foreground and cityscape in the background in Gothenburg, Sweden. View toward the west.

Walking through town, there are reminders everywhere about your third centennial celebration. Oddly, due to “delays” (we Gothenburgers excel at that…), we didn’t really celebrate your birthday until 1923. Funnily, the pandemic and other “delays” force us to delay the fourth centennial celebration, too. Therefore, our amusement park, Liseberg, will unveil a huge expansion, not this year, but in1923, their centennial. Therefore, many of the amazing building plans that were scheduled for this year won’t be done. But we can see them rise and if we grow tired of the hustle and bustle of downtown, your islands, lakes, the ocean, and forests beckon us to relax and recharge our batteries.

Gothenburg city center by night. Construction ongoing for the new city bridge, the new train tunnel and several skyscrapers.

We got a new bridge across the river, and when you go downtown (which we’ve been avoiding during this pandemic, as much as humanly possible) you see construction going on everywhere: skyscrapers, train tunnels, tram tracks, you name it. Gothenburg is rapidly transforming into a 21st-century city, including a building taller than any other in Scandinavia.

Reanimating an old tourist slogan, here’s my greeting to my home town on your big day: Göteborg, we ❤️ you! (Please note this video is 14 years old, at least… LOL)

If you plan to visit Gothenburg, let me know. I’d be happy to show you my home town.